Garment Seam Slippage test procedure (ISO 13936 – 1 & 2)

This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns , or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam.

Principle
The load elongation curve of the fabric is super – imposed over a load elongation curve of the same fabric with a standard seam sewn parallel to the yarns being tested.

Fixed seam opening method - Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which a slippage of specified size (generally 6 mm opening is preferred) is seen.

Fixed load method - Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as seam opening at a specified load.
Apparatus

Constant rate of Extension Tensile testing instrument with the following:

• Load cell with a 50kg capacity.
• 50mm/minute constant rate of extension.
• Pneumatic rubber faced jaws (Rear jaw = 75x25mm, Front jaw 25x25mm).
• For PC operated machines, Next approved software or a chart recorder device.

3cm calibrated metal ruler

Specimen Preparation

Prepare specimens from a garment or a production seamed panel that reflects the seams to be used in the end garment.

Specimens must be 100mm in width and approximately 150mm in length with the seam central and parallel to the width.

Where possible prepare 3 specimens from the same seam area in the garment.

All seam types used in the garment must be tested.
Conditioning

Condition the samples for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20 ± 2C and 65 ± 4% RH before testing.

Carry out the test in this atmosphere.

Test Procedure (Using an Automatic Constant Rate of Extension Tensile Tester)

a) The programme is automatic. The test speed is 50mm per minute.

b) Use the 75mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps as the rear jaws and the 25mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps as the front jaws, to give an area of contact, 25mm x 25mm when the jaws are closed.

c) The correct jaws must be in place and the gauge length set to 100mm, using a calibrated metal ruler.

d) Select the correct programme and input the appropriate machine settings, fabric information, technician’s name and date of test.

e) Slack mount the specimens in the jaws, ensuring that they are central and straight.

f) Place the seamed specimen in the jaws with the seam midway between jaws, and set the cross-head in motion until the fixed load stated in the table below has been reached.

g) As soon as the fixed load has been achieved reduce the load on the specimen to 0.5kg at a test speed of 50mm/min.

h) When the specimen has reached a load of 0.5kg use the 3cm metal ruler to manually measure the widest point of seam opening and record in mm.

i) As soon as the seam opening has been measured set the cross-head in motion until the seam reaches breakdown.

Repeat steps e) to g) for the remaining test specimens.

Test Report

Report the test method number and title.

Report the fixed load used.

Report the seam opening in mm for each individual specimen and the location of the tested specimens taken from the garment.

Note: Report the seam breakdown in kilograms (if the seam breaks down before the fixed load is reached report as “seam breakdown” and the load at which this occurred).

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