• Here is a brief explanation of the Four point system:

This fabric inspection method was established by The American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) with reference to the designation:
ASTM D 5430-93
Amount to select: Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment.

Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll must be selected, then choose the additional rolls in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.

Defect Classification (Four- Point System):

In the four-point system, a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and no linear yard can be assessed for any single defect and no linear yard can be assessed more than four points regardless of the number of defects within that piece.
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)

Major Defects:
• A defect that, if noticeable on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second. Major fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, double pick, yarn contamination, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn, out of registration, dye spots, stains, machine stop, streaks, crease marks smears, shading (within the roll, within the same dye lot) barre etc…….
Minor Defects:
• A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as second either because of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to rate questionable defects as Major since the inspector will not know where the defect may occur on the item.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:
• Acceptance Point – Count: 10 points per 100 linear yards as the acceptable defect rate.



• For Fabric width exceeding 64″-66″, maximum penalty points can be increased above 4 per linear yard in proportion to the width.
• The fabric mill needs to send 15 yards of the fabric they think it may not meet our acceptance point-count to be reviewed by CAbi. This procedure will be performed on a case by case basis.

Inspection Procedure:

• Determine the amount to inspect 10%
• Select the rolls to inspect.
• Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
• Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the beginning of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process at the middle as well as at the end of the roll and use the strip to check for any shading problems.
Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to turn the light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
• Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source.
• Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
• Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted.
• Record any defects on the fabric inspection report.

Bow & Skew:

The maximum deviation must be 2% of the overall fabric width
If any fabric exhibits bow or skew where its end use becomes doubtful, then that fabric will be rejected.

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